![]() Andrea Console has updated the project titled Twelve inches of Art to see the stars.k-ww on Modern Dance Or Full-Body Keyboard? Why Not Both!.superkuh on See Satellites In Broad Daylight With This Sky-Mapping Dish Antenna.Flopsy on Move Aside Yoda, It’s Furby’s Turn On Luke’s Back.Dude on Why A Community Hackerspace Should Be A Vital Part Of Being An Engineering Student.Your system is much more impressive… and pretty. I have one 7-channel board for the 5-switch wall plate in the living room that required a different setup, but everything else was kept identical for easy replacement.įor me, simplicity and low budget were the main considerations. Most relay boards are 4 input, 4 output, as that is more than I need for my 2-switch wall plates and fits nicely in a pair of CAT5 cables with common wire being two pairs to handle load. It’s basically a centralized control, with remote I/O boards to simplify comms and negate the issues you had with I2C freezing. ![]() A small 3-gang box at the top of each wall houses terminations, and keeps it all safe. I used different cable colors for input and output, to avoid confusion. CAT5 is color-coded, so terminations are easy. Install was easy, as all you need to do is identify the incoming 120V supply, and cut the Romex at the top of the wall to make connections. Same basic setup to use 12VDC through the existing wall switches to switch inputs to the Arduinos, with voltage dividers at the Arduino inputs to bring down the voltage. The 12V signal is run to relay boards mounted at the top of the wall (in the attic) via CAT5 cables, to drive the relays that switch 120VAC for the lights/fans. The Megas “remember” everything and control I/O directly (through some “hats” I soldered with Darlington transistors to switch 12VDC). All the “smart” stuff is mounted at the top of a closet, out of sight (because my work is ugly!) I used an old 400W computer PSU to provide power to the RPi and Arduinos. I used a Raspberry PI to change settings (timers, schedule, home/away, etc.) in a few Arduino Megas via I2C. Output mod: 24x 250 mA coil drive (protected agains overcurrent and ,permanent, short’s)Īnalog Mod: 8x ADC 8Bit 0.10V and 2x DAC 8Bit 0.10V plus 4 NO/NC relais outputsĬamer Mod: 5x camera coax PAL with a DSP for image processing. Software: (property) Boot part in Eprom (16k) or flash, Appl (16k) part downloadable in Ram Power 24 V DC +/- 50 % (garanteed at worse case)Ĭoms: RS485 halve duplex 375 kbps 9N1 multi master (2 pairs) Further more there are Output, LCA, ANAlog and even a CAMera module(s) with a max of 7 modules on a single processor module. (in production till 2015)Įvery unit (box) had a prosessor module, for coms, interrupt inputs and PSU. In the early 90s the boards where replaced with DIN modules (boards size 100x160mm), on top 25 Din female bus, bottom 4Bit adr dipswitch and on front Inputs/Outputs/Leds. Today (from 2010.) all digital Inputs and Outputs are done with industrial ethercat modules (but specs/quality is NOT what we where used to (: these boards where 8051 based with a RS485 multi master communication. ![]() Looks a lot like the remote IO boards what we (at ex employer) used in the secound have of the 80s. Posted in home hacks, Raspberry Pi Tagged CAN, home automation, pi pico, raspberry pi home automation Post navigation We covered the CAN2040 library when it was first released, and it’s lovely to see it being used for something entirely unexpected. The firmware and board files are all released under an Apache 2.0 license, but the CAN2040 library this project relies on is under GPL. These can be placed in a giant metal box in a central wiring location and not worry about it. The second has 16 optoisolators to read from 12v-24v switches and various buttons throughout the house. The first connects to a 16 relay board and can control 16 different 24v relays. There are two parts to the system: pico-relay and pico-input. The CAN bus is designed to work in an electrically noisy environment. This meant board-to-board communication and protocols like I2C were susceptible to noise (every time a relay triggered, the bus would lock up briefly). One of goals was to make the boards easily swappable when hardware failed. The unique twist of PicoHome is that it uses a CAN bus for communication. But what if you don’t want hundreds of internet-connected devices in your home polluting the wireless spectrum and allowing potential security holes into your network? If you’re like, you might reach for something wired and use cheap and (currently) available Raspberry Pi Picos to create PicoHome. ![]() In an ideal smart home, the explosion of cheap WiFi and Bluetooth chips has allowed hundreds of small wireless devices to control the switches, lights, and everything else required for a “smart home” at a relatively low price.
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